Morphologically chastened by the editorial department for Richard goes to Croatia, I hereby present a pun-free account of the tastings encountered on my recent visit to Croatia. The Malvazija Istarska flight was tasted in situ in Istria, whereas the other two were held in the somewhat more sterile surrounds of the Hotel Westin in Zagreb. The notes are grouped by grape, then sorted by producer (sur)name.
Generally speaking, the 2008 vintage in Croatia was very difficult, with hail several times in July and August. A very dry spell followed, so the most successful wines were from winemakers with the strongest nerve, who left their grapes to ripen longest. 2007 was classified as above average, and 2006 was one of Croatia’s best ever harvests.
Malvazija Istarska Croatia’s native white variety, and the main grape of Istra in the north west (Istria in English, on the border with Slovenia). Excepting the few cold-fermented, homogenised examples, these wines demonstrated a very enjoyable and versatile range of flavours. Franc Arman Malvazija Istarska 2007 Western Istria 16 Drink 2009-11
Nuts, lemon juice, apple, very well-defined fresh fruits and generous body with just a hint of mineral on the finish. 13% (RH)
Marijan Arman Malvazija Istarska 2008 Western Istria 16 Drink 2009
Gentle dairy cream on the palate, with greengage, citrus and soft steely mineral characteristics. 13% (RH)
Benvenuti Malvazija Istarska 2008 Central Istria 16 Drink 2009
Light, white fruits, inoffensive and correct with a drop of minerality and some dairy characters to flesh out the palate. 13.4% (RH)
Clai, Sveti Jakov Malvazija Istarska 2007 Western Istria 15 Drink 2009
Fragrant sweet flowers, roses and marzipan. The tropical fruit is ripe but can’t quite match up to the powerful aromatic qualities, leaving the finish unbalanced. 15% (RH)
Coronic Malvazija Istarska 2008 Western Istria 15.5 Drink 2009
Lively acidity that doesn’t quite match the fruit concentration, bitter tones on the finish with a light blossom flavour. 13.5% (RH)
Dajla Malvazija Istarska 2008 Western Istria 16+ Drink 2009-11
Nuts, pear juice, stones, bracing acidity and a smoothly balanced mouthfeel with lovely fresh apple characters. Still very tense – might evolve with a year in bottle.
Festigia Malvazija Istarska 2008 Western Istria 16.5 Drink 2009-11
Light and primary, with banana, a tiny hint of toast, vibrant citrus on the palate with textured minerality to finish. This is a good balance of classic terroir, akin to some Alto Adige white, and fresh fruitiness. 13.2% (RH)
Geržinić Malvazija Istarska 2008 Western Istria 16 Drink 2009
Powerfully scented nose, some floral characters with the green apple fruit. Easy drinking and enjoyable, but quite straightforward. 13.2% (RH)
Kozlović Malvazija Istarska 2008 Western Istria 15.5 Drink 2009
Green apple, citrus, light-bodied and easy-drinking. Slightly too generic for its own good – euro-blanc. 13% (RH)
Kozlović, Santa Lucia Malvazija Istarska 2006 Central Istria 16.5 Drink 2009
Orange peel, concentrated and spicy with dairy and butter on the palate and ripe, full body with a little burn on the finish. This is hearty and powerful stuff, done with conviction. 15% (RH) Matić Malvazija Istarska 2008 Western Istria 16 Drink 2009-10
Light, citrus, pears, mineral steel, dry and lengthy finish with fresh fruity tang and bitter yet ripe fruits. 13.1% (RH)
Matošević, Alba Barrique Malvazija Istarska 2006 Western Istria 15.5 Drink 2009
Very forward toffee and cream aromas with some underlying citrus fruits. The oak influence is ultimately too much: the vanilla dairy notes overwhelm the delicate fruitiness. 14% (RH)
Matošević, Alba Robinia Malvazija Istarska 2005 Western Istria 16.5 Drink 2009
Aged in acacia. Rich and buttery, lemon pudding, cream and nuts. Broad-shouldered and bold with a clean fresh finish and very successful balance. (RH)
Matošević Malvazija Istarska 2008 Western Istria 15.5 Drink 2009
Neutral white fruit, some floral tones, light and aromatic. 13% (RH)
Poletti Malvazija Istarska 2008 Western Istria 15.5 Drink 2009
Light, plain nose with sherbet citrus and fresh acidity, a hint of gunflint on the finish, rather neutral. 13.3% (RH)
Radovan Malvazija Istarska 2008 Western Istria 16 Drink 2009
Pale citrus hints on the nose, some steely tones with a surprisingly full ripeness on the palate that lingers well. 13.7% (RH)
Roxanich, Antica Malvazija Istarska 2006 Western Istria 17 Drink 2009
63 days of skin-contact. Very deep shade of straw. Developed oxidative flavours, butter, bitter grapefruit on the finish, complex and concentrated with impressive length and a fresh quality that counterbalances the strong dairy and over-ripe fruit – like a good Gran Reserva Rioja Blanco. 13.8% (RH)
Terzolo Malvazija Istarska 2008 Western Istria 16 Drink 2009-11
Very pungent flint, citrus fruit with a dry, rich body and plenty of persistence. There is a bitter almond-like character on the finish that combines well with the powerful mineral flavours. Quite esoteric – but whiffy hint of too much sulphur, perhaps? 13.7% (RH)
Trapan, Ponente Malvazija Istarska 2008 Western Istria 16.5 Drink 2009-10
Light and steely, gentle citrus, baked apples, very fine and delicate with good persistence and poise. 13% (RH)
Trapan, Uroboros Malvazija Istarska 2007 Western Istria 16 Drink 2009
Aged in acacia. Pungent and sappy nose, gentle fruit character on the palate, well-judged balance of wood and fruit, certainly quite distinct from the type of wood used – most similar to the Retsina style, though much less aggressive. 13.1% (RH)
PLAVAC MALI Translating as ‘little blue’ in reference to the appearance of the berries, Plavac Mali is an indigenous variety from mid and south Dalmatia, recently discovered by Carole Meredith of UC Davis and Profs Maletić and Pejić of Zagreb University to be a cross of Crljenak (Zinfandel) and Dobričić. It is mostly bush-vine grown, and is characterised by high sugars (rarely below 13% potential alcohol), low acid and high tannins.
Ivan Dolac, Svirce Plavac Mali 2005 Hvar 16+ Drink 2009-14
Redcurrant, a bit of cassis, cedar wood and pencil shavings with tannins as big and furry as a fairground teddy bear. Needs either time or food to be most appreciated. 14.3% (RH)
Donja Banda, Plavac Mali 2006 Pelješac 17 Drink 2009-13
Bacon rind, sweaty saddle, ripe red fruit – rather attractive and authentic-seeming. Lovely cherry and smoked meat combo on the palate with good balance of tannin and acid and a very satisfying length. Smoked like a kipper, but retains enough fruit to match it. 14% (RH)
Kolekcija Plavac Mali 2004 Pelješac 15.5 Drink 2009
Vanilla, earth, blackberry, pushy tannins, soft fruit, a bit empty mid-palate. 14.3% (RH)
Korta Katarina Plavac Mali 2006 Pelješac 16 Drink 2009
Black fruit cordial, jammy, liquorice and medicinal characters. Not enough definition and distinction between the flavours – a bit of a blur, and the tannins need a little more taming. 14.2% (RH)
Libertas Plavac Mali 2006 Pelješac 16.5 Drink 2009-14
Lots of plump blueberry flavour here – this flies the Zinfandel flag like the Stars & Stripes on Independence Day. Pure liquorice and medicinal hints too, adding nice complexity. Firm tannins, tight flavour profile, lots of potential. 13.8% (RH)
Madirazza, Reserva Barrique Plavac Mali 2006 Pelješac 16 Drink 2009-12
Ripe blueberry, dark chocolate, a bit of charred oak on the finish, high tannins and a bit harsh at the end, which just spoils the ripe jollity of the nose a smidge. 14.7% (RH)
Matusko, Reserva Plavac Mali 2004 Pelješac 16.5 Drink 2009-13
Ample blueberry fruit on the nose with a medicinal twang. Fine-grained but strong tannic structure, with a focused cassis character on the mid palate and eucalypt notes on the finish. 14.8% (RH)
Mediterano, Plavac Mali 2007 Hvar 16 Drink 2009-12
Intense black fruit, vanilla, cedar, very full and ripe fruit character. High but smooth tannin, lingering vanilla spice and some piquancy too. Full-on and bold but well balanced. 13.3% (RH)
Medvid, Plavac Mali 2005 Hvar 16.5 Drink 2009-15
Animal, black fruit, chunky tannins, very tight and intense with leather, liquorice and tobacco scent just emerging, plus some mint and cedar. Could develop over another few years. (RH)
Milicic Plavac Mali 2006 Pelješac 17 Drink 2009-13
Open, earthy aromas, with a ripe vegetal tone that integrates well with the mushy red fruit. Spice, high tannins, vanilla, soft red fruit and a smooth finish with decent length. This is like a cross between a Rioja, a burgundy and an Hermitage with some Nebbiolo tannin added in for good measure. An enjoyable oddity. 14.1% (RH)
Milos, Stagnum Plavac Mali 2003 Pelješac 15.5 Drink 2009-13
Meat juice, blackberry, earth, medicinal antiseptic aromatics and something of a compost aroma that is a bit distracting. Lots of liquorice and black fruit on the palate, but the pong remains, hanging around like a bad smell – shame. 14.6% (RH)
Lucic Plavac Mali 2005 Pelješac 16.5 Drink 2009-12 Moderate intensity, black pepper that seems very Shiraz-y, firm tannin but somehow soft mouthfeel. 14.4% (RH)
Saint’s Hill Plavac Mali 2008 Pelješac 16 Drink 2009-12
Smoke, bacon, ripe cherry but a bit lacking on the mid palate – primary fruit is fine but no great follow-up in evidence, although there is a bit of spice on the finish. (RH)
Skaramuca, Reserva Plavac Mali 2006 Pelješac 16.5 Drink 2009-13
Strong-armed fruit power plus leather, dried meat with a sweet, ripe red berry flavours on the palate. A pinch of spiciness, too, that offsets the alcohol well, and chewy tannic structure. 15% (RH)
Tomic, Barrique Plavac Mali 2006 Hvar 16.5 Drink 2009-12
Ripe, cakey fruit with leather and liquorice hints. Very dense, almost Port-esque fruit – lots of concentration and intensity with a charcoal-toasted complexity on the finish. Very solid tannic structure. 14% (RH)
Zlatan, Barrique Plavac Mali 2006 Hvar 15 Drink 2009-12
Pongy, farmyard nose with a ripeness of fruit that is almost off, plus a bit of volatile acidity too. High tannins, soft red fruit but a lingering bacterial funkiness that upsets the quality. 14.5% (RH)
Zlatan, Ctljenak Plavac Mali 2006 Hvar 16.5 Drink 2009-12 Violets, medicinal, potent black fruit and redcurrant sauce, lifted aromatics, noticeable grippy tannins and meaty characters on the finish. 14% (RH)
Zlatan, Grand Cru Plavac Mali 2006 Hvar 16.5 Drink 2009-13
Grand Cru is an unofficial term, referring to old vines in this case. Earth, mineral and black fruit but a slight volatile acidity scent that taints the aroma. Dry tannins with a oaked finish leaving a vanilla spice aftertaste. Very firm and forward. 14% (RH)
GRAŠEVINA Graševina is a synonym for Welschriesling. The Croatian name derives from grasak meaning ‘green peas’, a reference to the grape berries in early stages of development. This was an erratic line-up, with something of an identity crisis throughout. The quality wasn’t necessarily in question, but consistency of style was. Some were like New World Chardonnays, others like Rhine Rieslings – plus several dessert wines for good measure, the terminology for which is as follows: izborna berba = auslese; izorna berba bobica = beerenauslese; porsusenih = trockenbeerenauslese; ledena = icewine.
Bartolovic Graševina 2007 Kutjevo 16.5 Drink 2009
Vanilla, butter, pineapple, sweet spices, soft banana and apple fruit. Quite a broad range of flavours here, nicely balanced and dry to finish although having an apple cake or dessert-type quality on the mid palate. 13% (RH)
Belje Graševina 2008 Baranja 16 Drink 2009
Rich, creamy, vanilla pod, soft cheese, spice, apples, a touch of tropical fruit, and plenty of body that carries the alcohol well. 14.7% (RH)
Daruvarska, Izborna Berba Bobica Graševina 2004 Daruvar 16 Drink 2009-12
Rich, generous tropical fruit, treacle and caramel, preserved fruits. On the palate, honey, burnt sugar, mixed peel and oranges. 15.4% (RH)
Daruvarska Graševina 2007 Daruvar 16.5 Drink 2009-10
Developed and expressive orange peel, lemon zest, marmalade and sweet spice aromatics. Broad palate with gradually fading length and a good level of complexity thanks to a certain oxidative style, plus an off-dry finish which gives attractive fullness. 13.4% (RH)
Dvanajscak-Kozol Graševina 2006 Slavonija 15 Drink 2009
Sweet. Crystallised ginger, lemon, orange, spice-box. Rather light for a sweet wine, and not especially complex. 13.9% (RH)
Enjingi, Izborna Berba Graševina 2004 Kutjevo 15.5 Drink 2009-12
Treacle, marmalade, botrytis characters, floral and expressive. Heady and intense core that doesn’t quite balance with the alcohol, making it quite a heavy, impenetrable style. 16% (RH)
Enjingi, Kasna Berba Graševina 2006 Kutjevo 17 Drink 2009-10
Late harvest, but dry. Pronounced marmalade and orange zest nose with fresh lime juice, slate and a slight hint of funky cheese. Fresh acidity and a peppery bite on the finish – good range of flavours makes this very interesting and gastronomic. 14.2% (RH)
Frlan Graševina 2007 Ozalj-Vivodina 15.5 Drink 2009
Grapefruit, bitter lemon, light floral and some mineral hints. Crisp acidity and rounded citrus flavours. Moderate body and intensity, entirely inoffensive. 11.7% (RH)
Gerstmajer Graševina 2007 Slavonija 16.5+ Drink 2009-12
Sweet. Strong flinty aromatics, crab apple and lemon fruit, honeycomb, treacle and a sweet but not luscious finish with a pleasant fresh hazelnut aftertaste. 12.6% (RH)
Goldberg Graševina 2007 Baranja 15.5 Drink 2009
Rich, creamy, vanilla bean, baked apple, but a bit one-dimensional with overt oak use. 14% (RH)
Adzic, Hrnjevac Graševina 2007 Kutjevo 16.5 Drink 2009-10
Flint, slate, mineral, apple and grapefruit. Smooth, creamy and ripe with a nicely defined apple fruit on the finish and freshly milled spices that linger on the back palate. 12.5% (RH) Kalazic Graševina 2007 Baranja 16 Drink 2009
Golden-hued in the glass. Proud buttery oak upfront, candied apple and sweet spice with a lick of toffee and caramel on the finish. Warm alcohol. Not for the xylophobic. 13.9% (RH)
Krauthaker, Izborna Berba Prosusenih Bobica Graševina 2007 Kutjevo 17 Drink 2009-12
Developed marmalade, oil, honeycomb, paraffin and crystallised orange fruit. Incredible viscosity and denseness with smart acidity to retain freshness. Ornate, luscious, complex and delicious. 13% (RH)
Krauthaker, Mitrovac Graševina 2008 Kutjevo 16.5 Drink 2009-10
Butter, ripe apple, ice-cream, quite weighty on the palate, with good persistence and tacky (in the non-pejorative sense) mouthfeel. 14% (RH)
Krizevacka, Barrique Graševina 2006 Kalnik 16.5 Drink 2009-10
Lemon curd, toast, butter, cream and a good dose of slate. Dry, vibrant acidity that counterpoints the viscosity well, and the fresh fruit harmonises well with the noticeable oak ageing. Good. 12.4% (RH)
Kutjevo de Gotho Graševina 2007 Kutjevo 16.5 Drink 2009
Tropical fruits – banana, melon, mango – with a hint of TCP antiseptic lotion and mint. Creamy mouthfeel and good concentration, showing tropical fruit crush with a bitter tang on the finish. 13.4% (RH)
Kutjevo, Ledena Berba Graševina 2005 Kutjevo 17 Drink 2009-13
Preserved fruits, honey, lime sorbet, remarkable smoked meat and tobacco finish that lingers for a long time. The savoury characters on the finish mark this out as a real peculiarity. 12.6% (RH) Mihalj Graševina 2006 Kutjevo 16 Drink 2009
Smoke, flint, citrus, dairy cream on the palate and a smooth, satisfying body. 12.6% (RH)
Zigrovic Graševina 2007 Zelina 16 Drink 2009-10
Apples, bitter herbs, some dairy tones. Citrus, green apple, quite decent persistence but overall rather too unspecific. 13.3% (RH)
